Dive/SCUBA Gear

Buoyancy Compensators 101

Sizing:

Material: BCD's come in two types of configurations, a single and dual bladder style BCD. 90% of the BCD's on the market are of the single bag variety. They are made from 420 denier nylon, which is both ideal for travel and highly puncture resistant. Where as a high denier nylon 840, 1000, 1200 are heavier but, highly scratch resistant against sharp objects such as wrecks. They are ideal for the technical diver. Dual bag style BCD have the benefits of higher denier nylon with a urethane inner bladder. They need more maintenance but are sort of a hybrid between recreational and technical style BCD's 90% of all BCDs have a wrap around bladder that puts air underneath your arm which is principally designed for comfort. Wing style BCD's are directed to the more technical experienced diver and can pro-vide higher lift for twin tanks etc.

Integrated Weights:

One of the biggest advances in BCD design is integrating the weight system into the actual vest. By doing so you eliminate the weight belt getting lost under the vest, slipping down your legs, or having to constantly re-adjust as your wetsuit com-presses and decompresses. The weight system should have two easily releasable pouches just below the front pockets or the front waistline of the BCD. This will house the majority of the weights, however you will need to have counter balancing weights in two non-releasable pockets on the back of the BCD. This will pre-vent you from fighting to stay upright while on the surface. For example let's say you need 24 lbs of weight. You would put 10lbs on each side in the releasable pockets and 2lbs in each of the non-releasable pockets.

BCD's Designed for Women:

What makes them different than the standard BCD's:

• Reduced backpack height-taking the pressure off the spine and distributing it more evenly around the hips.
• Chest area redesigned to conform to a woman's physique
• No chest strap-Reducing constriction in breathing
• Integrated weight system prevents bruising from the weights on the hips

Air Integrated Inflators:

One of the most popular trends is replacing your power inflator with an Alternate Air Source Integrated Inflator. The benefits to this is twofold, one if your regulator gets knocked out of your mouth you just breathe off your alternate which is right where your inflator was, and two you eliminate that long octopus hose, all while still being able to inflator your BCD form the same device.

D-Rings:

D-rings or hard points are strategically placed around the vest so you can hang your spare light, writing slate, wreck reel etc.

This information copyrighted by Chris Fuller.

Regulators 101

• Regulators consist of a first and Second stage. They are designed to take the high tank pressure and break it down to a divers demand level.
• Advances in Regulator technology and materials allow for easier breathing, and less Jaw fatigue.

What is the primary purpose of a regulator?

Since there is no way a diver can breathe directly off a scuba tank, they need a regulator to take that tanks high pressure and break it down and deliver air based on the divers demand.

How does it work?

Generally the first stage of the regulator that attaches to the tank, takes the High Pressure and breaks it down to an intermediate pressure of approximately 125-140 psi over ambient pressure. So at 33 feet it is actually giving 145psi-165psi and at 66 feet is reads 15psi higher etc.. Then the air comes out of the Low pressure ports on the first stage and fills the hose line up which is connected to the second stage, where the diver's mouth-piece is located. Air then is provided on a diver demand basis. You inhale the air from the hose fills the open space in the mouthpiece and you breathe in.

What are the primary components?

1st Stage

In looking at the first stage of a regulator you need to consider several factors.

Overbalanced, Balanced or Un-balanced:

Most entry level regulators are unbalanced and quite a bit less expensive, whereas the next model up is generally balanced. An overbalanced 1st stage considered the best performing of the three delivers an increased volume of air to the diver as their depth is increased. A balanced first stage regulator offers consistent air flow regardless of depth and tank pressure. An unbalanced regulator will become harder to breathe from as depth increases and or tank pressure decreases. The state of the art version of a first stage is to have it overbalanced. As a diver descends more air is delivered, hence making the Overbalanced 1st stage regulators the easiest to breathe for the diver.

Piston or Diaphragm:

These are two primary types of 1st stages. They refer to the method of reducing tank pressure to Intermediate pressure. Piston 1st stages have fewer moving parts but are exposed to the out-side elements more. They are generally less expensive to service. Diaphragm regulators have more parts but are sealed from the environment. Of course you get the right warranty the expense of repairing is negligible down to the cost of labor only.

Sealed:

We all know when you take the regulator out of the bag we need to inspect the 1st stage filter area before we put it on the tank and vice versa. We also want to pre-vent getting water or other contaminates in the 1st stage as well. Some manufacturers have a new closure that prevents contamination of the inside of e first stage.

DIN compatibility:

If you are choosing to use the HP tanks because they are smaller in size, you will need to check into the available.

Nitrox or Enriched Air Compatibility:

When diving Nitrox or enriched air, Regulators 1st/2nd stages need to be cleaned and have special materials for the activity. Some manufacturers pro-vide the regulators Nitrox or Enriched Air ready. Titanium Regulators are not suited for any enriched air or nitrox mixes. You must take a specialty class in order to dive the enriched air nitrox mixes.

Number of Ports:

Generally there are 3-5 low pressure ports accommodating your safety second, power inflator hose and a dry suit hose if needed. Some manufacturers have 1st stages that all the LP ports are on a swivel, so when you turn your head the hoses follow with you. There is also one high pressure port that bypasses the regulator allowing you to read direct tank pressure at any time. Some regulators have two high pressure ports so you put your gauge on either side or set up a back up.

2nd Stage

How does it work?

Now you have the intermediate pressure on the second stage of 125psi to 140psi over ambient pressure which was explained earlier. Now as you inhale you pull the diaphragm back which moves a lever that is spring loaded and releases a rubber seat off of a cone allowing air to flow into the mouthpiece.

This information copyrighted by Chris Fuller.

Dive Computers 101

• Because Dive Computers continually monitor your depth and time underwater, you generally get a more accurate reading but increased dive time and de-creased surface interval between dives.
• Logbook and PC integration allow you to chart your dives
• Advances in Dive Computers allow you to monitor your depth, time and air time remain-ing through wireless sensors

Dive Computers: Who needs them?

A dive computer has become a vital source of information for the diver. It in-creases the underwater time, and reduces the surface interval between dives allowing for a more enjoyable and safer experience. 10 years ago manufacturers were making more analog gauges then computers, but times have changed and now the Computer has become an essential piece of equipment for every diver. Ex-pensive 10 years ago, the prices today are very affordable and do the same calculations as the expensive models. Some have backlighting, audible alarms, temperature logbooks, integrate air which all adds to the features of the dive computer. It is likened to a PC purchase.

How Dive Computers Work?

The DC provides a more accurate continuous status to the diver during their dive. Unlike the Dive Table, the Dive Computer is continually calculating each foot of depth and each second of time while descending and ascending, constantly debiting and crediting your bottom time. With-out getting into the superfine details, the dive computer is a based on a set of data known as an algorithm. This algorithm measures 9-12(depending on algorithm model) different body tissues in your body and their limits. Examples would be bone, muscle, brain etc. Where Bone matter would be on one end of the algorithm slow absorption rates, the brain where blood flow is high absorption would be faster. If you're interested in the minute details you could look through the US NAVY Dive Manual which explains all this in detail. They work to provide you with the data to have a save and fun dive.

Air or Nitrox

You just got certified and you are thinking you need just an air computer and you're not sure whether you will pursue the benefits of enriched air Nitrox. I have good news and no bad news for you. The Good news is that most manufacturers found it was cheaper to make the computers Enriched Air or Nitrox ready, so this keeps this feature out of the mix. So on a basic entry level inexpensive computer you get the ability to switch to the benefits or Enriched Air, Nitrox. You must be certified to Dive Nitrox, but rest assured you will have the computer that benefits you right at hand when the time comes.

Air Integration

The biggest trend other than integrating enriched Air into your Dive Computer, is taking a minimalist approach to your gauges. Integrating tank pressure into the computer screen is a great feature as it not only gives you your current pressure, but figures out based on your breathing rate at that time, and your nitrogen absorption limits, your total dive time remaining. Remember if you change your rate of breathing and/or ascend a few feet you will increase your total time remaining. This minimalist approach is achieved through a single glance at the screen of your computer.

Hose-less Wireless:

Another big trend in minimization is taking the air integration concept one step further, hose-less wireless pressure gauge. Basically there is two parts the gauge it-self, and a small transmitter that screws into the 1st stage of the regulator high pressure port. You get the benefits of the Air integration single glance concept with-out the hose!! The newest full featured Air integrated wireless units even can pro-vide you the tank pressure of your buddy simultaneously. Imagine the freedom of having just two hoses, one for your regulator, and the second for your alternate air source integrated into the BCD. No Octopus hose and no tank pressure hose.

This information copyrighted by Chris Fuller.

Choosing The Right Wet Suit

Wetsuits are designed for specific sports or activities. A wetsuit will protect you against water and weather conditions.

Choosing The Proper Wetsuit

Ask your self-what will I be using my wetsuit for? Example: Scuba Diving, Snorkeling, Water skiing, Wake boarding, Personal Water Craft, Surfing, Swimming.

It is important to know the water temperature and weather conditions, where you will be using the suit. Different wetsuits should be used based upon the seasons of the year. If you are not sure call some local shops that carry wetsuits and ask them.

Wetsuits come in different construction, cuts and materials. There are several different kinds of materials and sewing constructions. A wetsuit will not keep you completely dry. A small amount of water will enter through the seams, zipper, neck, arms or legs. Your body temperature will heat the thin layer of water that is trapped between your body and the material. This may take 3 to 10 min. depending on the construction, materials, water temperature and your body's reaction to the water.

Construction

The different types of seam construction in wetsuits are:

1. Overlock Stitch
2. Flatstitch or Flatlock
3. GBS - Glued & Blindstitched
4. GBS with seam tape

Overlock is recommended for warm water. 65F and up. (In a full suit)The seams are stitched on the inside. From the out side you will not see any stitching. On the inside you may recognize this construction from clothing. It is commonly used on sweat shirt and T-shirt seams. Some water may seep in through these seams.

Flatstitch or Flatlock is recommended for warm water too, 62F and up.(In a full Suit) You can recognize this seam from the out side. This stitch looks like railroad tracks. The interior and exterior seams look about the same. The interior seam construction is flat and is more comfortable against the body then the overlock stitch. Some water may seep in through these seams too.

Blindstitch is recommended for cold water. This construction is best for cold water because the seams are glued and then stitched. This seam construction looks similar to the Flatstitch. It is narrower in the width than the flatstitch seam. The seams are glued and bonded together. The seams are then stitched. The thread and needle holes penetrate only the top area of the surface. Some seams are only stitched on one side. Very little water if any will seep through these seams.

Blindstitched with seam taping (Fluid Seal) is recommended for extremely cold water usually 50F and below. The seam construction is the same as above accept the inner seams are reinforced or covered with tape. Very little water if any will seep through these seams.

Materials