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Golf
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Golf Equipment 101
The Official Rules of Golf mandate no more than 14 clubs are allowed in your bag during a round of golf, and that includes your putter. So it is vital that you choose a selection of clubs that best fits your swing, where you play and your ability level.
Determining Your Ability Level
Players can be divided into 3 basic ability levels--low-handicaps, mid-handicaps, and high-handicaps. A handicap is the golfer's way of measuring their performance against the par on a course, usually in relation to a par 72 regulation course.
The Low-Handicap Golfer
A low-handicaps player has a single-digit handicap, meaning he or she generally scores less than 10 strokes over par, or an 82 or less on a par-72 course.
- Woods
- The low-handicap player should carry a driver and at least 1 fairway wood, most likely the 3-wood
- Irons
- The low-handicap player will benefit from lower irons in his bag, because the 3 or 4-iron is a difficult club to hit, but can be very useful if it can be controlled
- Wedges
- A minimum of 3 wedges--pitching wedge, sand wedge, and either a lob wedge or approach wedge--in their bags, with a maximum four-degree difference between each one
The Mid-Handicap Golfer
The mid-handicap golfer plays "bogey golf," meaning his or her score averages out to 1 over par on each hole, or somewhere in the 11-20 handicap range.
- Woods
- In addition to the driver and a 3-wood and a 5-wood, consider adding a 7-wood or even a 9-wood. These fairway woods give much better control and consistency than the harder to hit long irons.
- Irons
- Most sets are comprised of the pitching wedge and irons 3 through 9
- Wedges
- Three different wedges are recommended--pitching wedge, sand wedge, and either a lob wedge or approach wedge
The High-Handicap Golfer
The high-handicap golfer is either a beginner or has not had the time to hone his game to reach the mid-handicap level. The high-handicapper usually shoots close to or over 100.
- Woods
- You may not even want to have a driver in your bag. Instead, go with the 3-wood as your off-the-tee wood and add the easier-to-hit 7- and 9-woods.
- Wedges
- Up to 3 wedges--pitching wedge, sand wedge, and either a lob wedge or approach wedge--should be carried
Determining the Type of Club
Various shafts and club head compositions and designs make it possible to select the right combination to suit every individual's golf game.
The Shaft
- Materials
- Golf club shafts now primarily come in 2 materials, steel and graphite
- Steel shafts
- Stronger, more durable and generally less expensive
- Offer greater consistency from shaft to shaft
- More control on shots, but requires a faster swing speed to generate the same distance as graphite
- Recommended for stronger players who could use a little extra control in their game
- Graphite
- Generally lighter than steel and can be made in many more variations
- Graphite is generally more expensive than steel and less durable
- The lighter shaft allows greater swing speed for more power, but it sacrifices control
- Graphite absorbs shock in a swing
- Flex
- Flex refers to the amount of "bend" in a shaft
- Your shaft flex needs to match with the speed of your golf swing
- Beginners and players with less powerful swings will benefit from a more flexible shaft
- An average player has a swing speed of 75-90 mph, and should look for a regular shaft
- Players with powerful swings - in the 90 -110 mph range - should purchase a stiff or firm shaft. This will provide a stiffer club for more control.
- Many shafts are now available in a uniflex that will fit most any golfer's swing
Types of Irons
- Cast irons
- Cavity back construction, also known as perimeter weighted irons
- Most of the head weight on the outside of the head
- A larger sweet spot because it puts more weight on the edges of the club face
- Beginners who tend to mishit the ball more often would benefit from cavity back/perimeter weighted irons because they are more forgiving
- Forged irons
- No special weight distribution on the back of the club head
- The center of gravity is in the center of the club head
- Small sweet spots, offers lower handicapper more control
- More advanced players who tend to strike the ball consistently in the center of the club would benefit from forged irons
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Choosing The Right Driver
Woods or metal woods are mainly used for longer shots in golf. Drivers are most often used off the tee, although more advanced players may choose to use a driver off the fairway when extra distance is required. A fairway or metal wood can also be used off the tee if the hole is narrow and requires a little more of a precision shot, or if the hole is shorter and you don't need all the distance that a driver may provide. Fairway and metal woods also are used for a wide variety of "utility" shots, including tight lies in the rough, or in fairway bunkers where you need more distance to get to the green, but need enough loft to get the ball in the air quickly.
Determining your ability level
Players can be divided into 3 basic ability levels: low-handicaps, mid-handicaps and high-handicaps. A handicap is the golfer's way of measuring their performance against the par on a course, usually in relation to a par 72-regulation course.
The low-handicap golfer
A low-handicap player has a single-digit handicap, meaning he or she generally scores less than 10 strokes over par, or an 82 or less on a par-72 course.
- Woods
- The low handicap player should carry a driver and at least 1 fairway wood, most likely the 3-wood
- Irons
- The low handicap player will benefit from lower irons in his bag, because the 3- or 4-iron is a difficult club to hit but can be very useful if it can be controlled
- Wedges
- A minimum of 3 wedges--pitching wedge, sand wedge, and either a lob wedge or approach wedge--in their bags, with a maximum 4-degree difference between each one
The mid-handicap golfer
The mid-handicap golfer plays "bogey golf," meaning his or her score averages out to 1 over par on each hole, or somewhere in the 11-20 handicap range.
- Woods
- In addition to the driver and a 3-wood and a 5-wood, consider adding a 7-wood or even a 9-wood. These fairway woods give much better control and consistency than the harder to hit long irons.
- Irons
- Usually only a 3 through 9 are recommended, since the 2- iron is very difficult to hit consistently
- Wedges
- Three different wedges are recommended - pitching wedge, sand wedge, and either a lob wedge or approach wedge
The high-handicap golfer
The high-handicap golfer is either a beginner or has not had the time to hone his game to reach the mid-handicap level. The high-handicapper usually shoots close to or over 100.
- Woods
- You may not even want to have a driver in your bag. Instead, go with the 3-wood as your off-the-tee wood and add the easier-to-hit 7- and 9-woods.
- Wedges
- Up to 3 wedges-- pitching wedge, sand wedge, and either a lob wedge or approach wedge--should be carried
Choosing the right driver
Choosing the right shaft
- Materials
- Golf club shafts now primarily come in 2 materials
- Steel shafts
- Stronger, more durable and generally less expensive
- Offer consistency from shaft to shaft because of a more advanced manufacturing process
- Steel offers more control on shots, but requires a faster swing speed to generate the same distance as graphite
- Recommended for stronger players who could use a little extra control in their game
- Graphite shafts
- Generally lighter than steel and can be made in many more variations, making it easier to select a shaft best suited to your game
- Generally more expensive than steel and less durable
- Lighter weight allows for greater swing speed for more power, but it sacrifices control
- Absorbs shock in a swing
- Flex
- Flex is the amount of "bend" in a shaft
- Your shaft flex needs to match with the speed of your golf swing. A shaft with more flex helps the ball fly farther.
- There are five general levels of flex in shafts: L (or Ladies), A (or Senior), Regular, Stiff, Extra Stiff.
- Beginners and players with less powerful swings will benefit from a more flexible shaft
- An average player with a swing speed of 75-90 mph, and should look for a regular shaft
- Players with powerful swings - in the 90 -110 mph range - should purchase a stiff or firm shaft. This will provide a stiffer club for more control.
- Many shafts are also available in a uniflex that will fit most any golf swing
Choosing the right loft
- Loft is the measure of the angle of the club head
- The greater the loft, the greater the angle on the face of the head and the more control but less distance
- The less loft, the greater distance, but at the risk of less control
- Generally, a club head loft is between 8-12 degrees. The slower you swing the club, the higher loft you will need.
- Slow swing - 10.5-12 degree loft
- Average swing - 9.5-10.5 degree loft
- Fast swing - 8-9.5 degree loft
Choosing the right length
There are 3 basic club lengths on the market today.
- Traditional
- An average length of 43-44 inches, comparable to more traditional clubs
- Mid-length
- Generally 45 or 46 inches long. Slightly longer distance potential and weight is comparable to older clubs because of lighter weight shaft materials.
- Long
- At lengths of more than 46 inches, these clubs provide the potential for longer shots, but at the risk of substantially less control
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Choosing the right fairway woods
Fairway woods are increasingly popular as an alternative to both drivers off the tee and to hard-to-hit long irons such as the 2-, 3- or 4-iron. Three factors are involved that make fairway woods a preferred club for many golfers.
- The average player feels better standing over a long fairway shot with a longer, lower profile wood rather than the harder-to-hit long iron
- A lower center of gravity makes it easier to get the ball in the air out of the fairway, rough or sand
- The larger club head compared to a long iron provides more distance without overswinging, increasing control as well as length
Fairway woods vs. long irons
Here is a simple guide to replacing a long iron with a fairway wood.
- 5-wood = 2-iron
- 7-wood = 3- or 4-iron
- 9-wood = 5-iron
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Choosing The Right Golf Clubs
A basic set of golf clubs is all any golfer needs to start playing the game. Three woods, a collection of 3-9-irons, pitching wedge, sand wedge and a putter, are all that is required. As your game develops and you improve, certain additional, more specific clubs can be added to suit your abilities.
To start there's only one rule to remember: You can't carry more than 14 clubs in your bag at any one time.
Determining your ability level
Before buying a set of clubs, first determine your ability level.
The low-handicap golfer
A low-handicap player has a single-digit handicap, meaning he or she generally scores less than 10 strokes over par, or an 82 or less on a par-72 course.
- Woods
- The low-handicap player should carry a driver and at least 1 fairway wood, most likely the 3-wood
- Irons
- The low-handicap player will benefit from lower irons in his bag, because the three or four-iron is a difficult club to hit but can be very useful if it can be controlled
- Wedges
- A minimum of 3 wedges--sand wedge, pitching wedge and either a lob wedge or approach wedge--in their bags, with a maximum 4-degree difference between each one
The mid-handicap golfer
The mid-handicap golfer plays "bogey golf," meaning his or her score averages out to 1 over par on each hole, or somewhere in the 11-20 handicap range.
- Woods
- In addition to the driver and a 3-wood and a 5-wood, consider adding a 7-wood or even a 9-wood. These fairway woods give much better control and consistency than the harder to hit long irons.
- Irons
- Usually only a 3 through 9 are recommended, since the 2-iron is very difficult to hit consistently
- Wedges
- Three different wedges are recommended- pitching wedge, sandwedge, and either a lob wedge or approach wedge
The high-handicap golfer
The high-handicap golfer is either a beginner or has not had the time to hone his game to reach the mid-handicap level. The high-handicapper usually shoots close to or over 100.
- Woods
- You may not even want to have a driver in your bag. Instead, go with the 3-wood as your off-the-tee wood and add the easier-to-hit 7- and 9-wood.
- Wedges
- Up to 3 wedges - pitching wedge, sand wedge, and either a lob wedge or approach wedges - should be carried
Determining a basic set
While there are variations, golfers buying a basic set of clubs should include the following:
2 or 3 woods
- Either a driver and 2 fairway woods (a 3- and 5-wood are common)
- Consider adding a 3.5-, and 7-wood
Eight irons
- A set traditionally includes a 3 through 9-iron plus a pitching wedge
- Many golfers are now not carrying the longer 3- and 4- irons for an additional fairway wood
Wedges
- Sand wedge (55-57 degree loft)
- Choose between a lob wedge (60-64 degree loft) or a gap wedge (50-53 degree loft)
Putter
- Putters are usually sold separately from full sets to allow the golfer to choose his or her own style
How To Buy Irons
Irons are used for shorter golf shots, ranging from 200 yards to less than 100 yards. The iron that is used is determined by the loft of the club head as well as the golfer's ability to hit the ball a certain distance. Improved technology allows golfers to select the type of iron that best suits his or her game.
Determining your ability level
Players can be divided into 3 basic ability levels-- low-handicaps, mid-handicaps and high-handicaps. A handicap is the golfer's way of measuring their performance against the par on a course, usually in relation to a par 72 regulation course.
The low-handicap golfer
A low-handicap player has a single-digit handicap, meaning he or she generally scores less than 10 strokes over par, or an 82 or less on a par-72 course.
- Woods
- The low-handicap player should carry a driver and at least 1 fairway wood, most likely the 3-wood
- Irons
- The low-handicap player will benefit from lower irons in his bag, because the 3- or 4-iron is a difficult club to hit but can be very useful if it can be controlled
- Wedges
- A minimum of 3 wedges--pitching wedge, sand wedge, and either a lob wedge or approach wedge--in their bags, with a maximum 4-degree difference between each one
The mid-handicap golfer
The mid-handicap golfer plays "bogey golf," meaning his or her score averages out to 1 over par on each hole, or somewhere in the 11-20 handicap range.
- Woods
- In addition to the driver and a 3-wood and a 5-wood, consider adding a 7-wood or even a 9-wood. These fairway woods give much better control and consistency than the harder to hit long irons.
- Irons
- Usually only a 3 through 9 are recommended, since the 2-iron is very difficult to hit consistently
- Wedges
- Three different wedges are recommended--pitching wedge, sand wedge, and either a lob wedge or approach wedge
The high-handicap golfer
The high-handicap golfer is either a beginner or has not had the time to hone his game to reach the mid-handicap level. The high-handicapper usually shoots close to or over 100.
- Woods
- You may not even want to have a driver in your bag. Instead, go with the 3-wood as your off-the-tee wood and add the easier-to-hit 7- and 9-woods.
- Wedges
- Up to 3 wedges--pitching wedge, sand wedge, and either a lob wedge or approach wedge--should be carried
Choosing the right iron
Various shafts and club head compositions and designs make it possible to select the right combination to suit every individual's golf game.
Types of irons
- Cast irons
- Cast irons have a cavity back construction, also known as perimeter weighted irons
- Most of the head weight on the outside of the head
- A larger sweet spot because it puts more weight on the edges of the club face
- Beginners who tend to mishit the ball more often would benefit from cavity back/perimeter weighted irons because they are more forgiving
- Forged irons
- No special weight distribution on the back of the club head
- The center of gravity is in the center of the club head
- Most forged irons also have the weight higher in the face, allowing the advanced player to better control trajectory
- Forged irons offer more accurate feedback on mishits
Choosing the right club head
- Sizes
- Standard
- Similar to the smaller sizes of traditional clubs
- Offers better control for an advanced player
- Midsize
- Combination of traditional and oversized irons
- Offer a bigger sweet spot than standard clubs
- Easier to handle than the oversized clubs
- Oversized
- More forgiving on mishits
- More difficult to control for a better player
- Materials
- Stainless steel
- Most cavity-back irons are cast iron, which makes them good for less-advanced players looking for durability and consistency
- Although many of today's cast clubs can offer similar, if not better playability than forged
- Forged irons are made of a softer steel, which provides better feel to more advanced players
- Titanium
- Lighter weight allows titanium heads to be made larger than traditional steel heads
- Larger heads provide more forgiveness on mishits
- Titanium is more expensive than steel
Choosing the right shaft
- Materials
- Steel shafts
- Stronger, more durable and generally less expensive
- Greater consistency from shaft to shaft because of a more advanced manufacturing process
- Offer more control, but require a faster swing speed to generate the same distance as graphite
- Recommended for stronger players who could use a little extra control in their game
- Graphite
- Lighter than steel and can be made in many more variations, making it easier to select a shaft best suited to your game
- Generally more expensive than steel and less durable
- Lighter weight provides greater swing speed for more power, but it sacrifices control
- Graphite absorbs shock in a swing
- Flex
- Flex refers to the amount of "bend" in a shaft
- Your shaft flex needs to match the speed of your golf swing
- Beginners and players with less powerful swings will benefit from a more flexible shaft
- An average player has a swing speed of 75-90 mph, and should look for a regular shaft
- Players with powerful swings--in the 90 -110 mph range--should purchase a stiff or firm shaft. This will provide a stiffer club for more control.
- Many shafts are now available in a uniflex that will fit most any golfers swing
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Choosing The Right Golf Balls
Today's golf balls are the culmination of a variety of disciplines and talents, from material science to physics. Since there are many kinds of golfers, engineers have devised many kinds of golf balls. When matched correctly to a golfer's game, specific golf balls can increase enjoyment as well as chances for better scores.
The technology of golf balls has reached an unprecedented level, offering different covers, cores, dimple patterns, and compressions to best suit golfers' varying needs. In general, golfers should look for a ball that offers low spin and high launch angle off the driver and the appropriate amount of spin around the greens. Just as each golfer has his or her own shoe size, not every golf ball will fit every golfer.
Swing speed is the biggest factor in determining which ball is right for which golfer - golfers with lower swing speeds should typically use a harder distance golf ball, while golfers with higher swing speeds should typically use a softer golf ball that offers more feel and control.
Ball Types
Distance
- A ball designed to react quickly off the clubface for maximum speed, which results in more overall distance.
- Distance balls typically appeal to people who find every yard counts. However where these balls may bring 15 more yards off the tee, they might not stop as quickly on the greens.
Control
- A ball designed to deter excessive spin.
- Control balls help golfers fight hooking-and-slicing tendencies.
Spin
- A ball intended to create as much backspin as possible, which generally leads to higher trajectory and better stopping ability around the green.
- If distance is not an issue for a golfer, but he or she prefers more control around the greens, then spin golf balls may be for them.
Construction
Overall Design
Two-piece balls:
- Contain a large solid core and Surlyn cover
- Enhance distance and durability
- Most Distance golf balls are 2-piece
Three-piece balls:
- Contain a solid core that typically exists to enhance distance
- Usually has a thin middle layer, called the mantle, designed to either enhance spin or deliver more energy to the core, improving distance
- Surlyn or urethane cover is designed to enhance distance (surlyn) or spin (urethane)
Core
- Solid cores are usually made of a high-energy rubber or plastic compound
- Titanium cores provide more reaction and greater distance
Cover
- Determines feel on shorter shots like putts and chips, a softer cover typically spins more for better control around the green
- Blends co-polymer plastics, high-energy rubber, or similar resistant compounds
- Multi-covers (3-piece balls) layer material over the core to induce different playing responses
- Surlyn-covered balls typically travel farther with less spin
- Urethane-covered balls are typically softer and offer more enhanced feel, although they don't resist scratching well
Dimples
- Vary between 300 and 500
- Affects the aerodynamics for more or less trajectory
- Larger dimples promote higher trajectory
- Smaller dimples promote lower trajectory
Playing Level
- When thinking about which ball will help you achieve par, it's best to imagine a good-sized par-4. If getting an extra 15 yards off the tee would help you most, then maybe a distance ball would help. If stopping the ball more quickly on the green would help most, then perhaps a spin or control ball would be best.
- In general, most golfers play golf balls that are too soft for their swing speed and should steer more toward a distance golf ball, so if a golfer is playing a soft golf ball perhaps he or she should try a distance ball next time around.
- Some balls are designed for slower swing speeds. These balls typically have lightweight construction that helps promote higher trajectory. They are generally marketed for women or seniors, but don't let labels fool you. Plenty of men play these balls because for them they yield the most distance.
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Golf Equipment 101
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Drivers
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Clubs
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Golf Balls
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