Fly Fishing Advice

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Choosing The Right Fly Fishing Line

Fly fishing, more than any other form of fishing, requires a balanced system - rod, reel, line, and leader all need to work together. Therefore it is important to select the right line and leader to ensure that your system works as a unit.

Choosing The Right Fly Fishing Line

There are a number of factors involved in choosing the proper fly fishing line.

• Line weight
  • Fly fishing line weight is ranked from 1 to 15, with 1 being the lightest and 15 the heaviest
  • Lighter lines are suited for delicate presentations and for casting light flies
  • Heavier lines are best for casting large, wind-resistant and heavy flies
  • Line weight is the easiest to select since this should be matched to your rod and reel
  • Fly fishing requires a balanced system so match the reel and rod. If you don't, you will hurt your casting accuracy and efficiency.
  • A 5 weight reel matches up with a 5 weight rod, so it follows that you should select a 5 weight line
  • Some manufacturers give a leeway by saying you can go one weight above or below this, say a 4 weight or 6 weight line with a 5 weight reel and rod. If you want to be safe, though, match the line, rod and reel exactly.
  • Your fly fishing line weight should also be selected based on the fish you want to catch
  • You'll need line weights from 1 to 7 for lighter fish such as panfish and most trout
  • Bass need a little heavier line, from 6 to 9 weight.
  • Larger fresh water and salt water fish take the heaviest lines--an 8 to 15 weight.
• Line taper
  • To help you cast more efficiently most fly lines are tapered. This taper varies in weight, diameter and thickness over the length of the line.
  • There are five main types of taper, each to meet a specific purpose
  • The taper is listed as an abbreviation by the manufacturer, with the usual abbreviations included in the following discussion:
    • Weight-forward (WF) taper
      • These are the most popular and the best choice if you are a beginner
      • The first 30 feet or so of line is heavier because of its tapered front end
      • The rest of the line is thinner and is known as the running line
      • The weight-forward line helps with long casts and better precision even in windy conditions
    • Bass bug/salt water (BBT) taper
      • This taper is much like the weight-forward design except that the front section does not run as long
      • This design helps with heavier flies, hence its use for catching feisty bass or bigger salt water fish
    • Double taper (DT)
      • DT fly lines are preferred by seasoned fly anglers
      • These lines work especially well in making delicate presentations on small- to medium-size rives since the belly is at the center, with both ends gradually tapering
      • This makes the line highly economical too because when one end wears out, you can turn the line around and use the other end
      • This line won't cast as far or provide as much wind resistance as a weight-forward line
    • Shooting taper (ST)
      • ST lines cast farther than other lines so they are designed for fast-running rivers and in extreme wind conditions. The line portion (front section) is stout and short to form a casting loop.
      • Most anglers attach a shooting line on the running line using monofilament, braided line or a very fine diameter fly line
    • Level (L) taper
      • These lines are uniform in diameter throughout, making them the most economical
      • If you are a beginner don't try to save money this way. Level taper lines are the most difficult to cast so they really are best used by seasoned veterans, primarily for fly fishing with live bait.
• Density
  • How your line behaves on the water depends on its density or line type, which affects its buoyancy
  • With different types of line available, consider buying a spare spool for your reel, when you purchase your reel. That way you can spool various types of line and switch spools to meet conditions.
  • There are four choices, and each carries an abbreviation, included below, to identify its density:
    • Floating (F) lines
      • These do as they say--they float on the water's surface
      • Floating lines are good for beginners since they are easier to cast and handle
      • Floating lines also are a must for dry flies, but they can also work with wet flies, nymphs and streamers that are fished several feet below the surface
    • Intermediate (I) lines
      • These are a little denser than water so they sink slowly to present a fly just below the water's surface
      • These lines work well in shallow, weedy lakes and in choppy waters where you want your line to stay below the choppiness
    • Sinking (S) lines
      • These lines do the opposite of floating lines--they sink
      • They are designed for deep lakes and deep, fast-flowing rivers
      • Some manufacturers also put a Roman numeral after the S to show how fast their line sinks in inches per second. For example, an S II line sinks about two inches per second
      • These lines are best for wet flies, nymphs and streamers at a constant depth
    • Floating/Sinking (F/S) lines
      • These combine the two characteristics--the five foot-- to twenty foot tip or front portion sinks to present the bait while the balance of line floats on the water
      • Manufacturers display the depth and speed that the front part of the line sinks
      • This floating/sinking line gets your fly down while helping you maintain control, so it's good for fish such as salmon and steelhead
• Color
  • If you are a beginner, select a highly visible color--yellow, orange, lime green and some shades of tan
  • These colors are easier to see on the water when you cast so you can more easily recognize and correct any casting mistakes
  • For sinking lines, you should go with something that's less visible to fish such as brown, olive, dark green or black
• Backing
  • Fly lines need a thin, high-visibility line tied between the reel spool and back end of your fly line
  • This generally comes in 20-pound to 30-pound test, with 20-pound suggested for fly line weights less than 8 and the 30-pound test for use with 8-weight line or higher
  • Backing performs three critical functions:
    • This adds length to your fly line, which typically runs only 90 feet
    • This then helps you land big, strong fish that run with your line. Experts suggest that use at least 100 yards of backing but up to 200 yards for longer-running fish and salt water fish.
    • This also keeps your reel spool full, making line retrieval faster and minimizing line recoil. (See fly reels.)
• Leaders
  • To make delicate presentations--or another way of letting your fly or other selected lure hit the water like a natural bug--you need a special, tapered length of line that connects your fly line to the fly
  • The fly is then tied to the thinnest part of the line called the tippet, which ensures there won't be a big splash that scares away that big fish
  • When you're out on the water, you want several different sizes and lengths of leaders to adapt to changing conditions and fly sizes
  • Leaders come in a system that helps you match the size of the tippet with the weight of your fly
  • The tippet is the end section of your tapered leader, the part that ties to your fly
  • These tippets carry an "X-rating" based on their diameter ranging from 0X to 8X
  • It's a little deceiving because OX is the thickest and strongest and 8X is the thinnest and weakest. Just remember to think opposite of the number designations.
  • It is important to carry extra spools of tippet material. Each time you tie a fly, you reduce the length of your leader. After half a dozen changes, you probably will have shortened your leader a foot so you can get back to where you started by tying on another foot of tippet.
  • There are two ways to choose a leader:
  • Based on fly size follow these guidelines:

  Determine Your Leader
  Leader size	Recommended fly sizes
  0X	fly sizes 2 - 1/0
  1X	fly sizes 4 - 8
  2X	fly sizes 6 - 10
  3X	fly sizes 10 - 14
  4X	fly sizes 12 - 16
  5X	fly sizes 14 - 18
  6X	fly sizes 16 - 22
  7X	fly sizes 18 - 24
  8X	fly sizes 22 - 28

• To help even more, 4X and 5X are used most often for trout, with 3X and 6X close behind
• Leaders six feet and shorter are best with sinking or sink-tip lines
• Small streams are perfect for 7 1/2-foot leaders
• For trout, use a 9 foot leader since this length works well with dry flies, wet flies and nymphs on fast-moving water
• In slower water where you really need extreme delicacy, use longer leaders--12 feet or more

VIEW ALL FLY FISHING REELS »   

Choosing The Right Fly Fishing Reels

Fly fishing is part science, part art. While it is demanding, you can improve your chances by selecting a reel that suits the type of fish you want to catch and your fishing style. This reel becomes part of a "balanced" system when combined with your fly line, leader and fly.

How To Buy Fly Fishing Reels

Reels can vary greatly in cost. Make sure to choose a reel that can accommodate the type and amount of line you want to use and that pairs well with your rod.

Construction

• Aluminum/Graphite
  • Most premium fly reels are made of aluminum, either cast or machined because of cost. Machined reels are a premium due to the frame integrity.
  • The main consideration with aluminum is its finish
    • If you plan to fly fish in salt water, buy a reel with an anodized finish since it will withstand the corrosive effects of salt air and water
  • A fly reel made of graphite is lighter and in most instances less expensive than aluminum body reels.
  • Combination aluminum body and graphite spool reels give the strength and durability of the aluminum body while lowering weight with the graphite spools.
• Line capacity
  • Many of today's fly reels come with large arbors, the spool's center where the fly line backing is tied. These larger arbor reels offer you several advantages:
    • Quicker line retrieval
    • Better line handling
    • Enhanced drag-pressure control
  • The larger arbor makes it easier to take in line, a big plus when a fish runs and then comes back at you
  • In fly fishing, you must keep constant pressure on the line so you'll be reeling to take up slack. A larger diameter arbor takes in more line with each turn of the handle (inches per turn).
  • The larger arbor reduces line coiling since the line pulls off with fewer corkscrews. This helps to keep the line from tangling.
  • You will get more consistent drag pressure from a larger arbor
• Line weight
  • First, determine the type of fish that you want to catch. Smaller fish such as trout require a lighter line weight; bigger fish such as pike need a heavier line weight. In either case, the reel needs to match the line weight.
  • You need to match your reel to your line weight and rod
  • A five-weight reel matches up with a five-weight rod
  • Remember, fly fishing requires a balanced system so match the reel and rod. If you don't, you will hurt your casting accuracy and efficiency.

Types of reels

There are three types of fly reels to select: single-action, multiplier or automatic.

• Single-action
  • This is the simplest and most common, a good choice if you a beginner
  • The fly line is stored on a spool and the handle attaches directly to the spool rather than a gear system found on most fishing reels. One crank of the handle provides one revolution of the spool.
• Multiplier
  • Unlike the single-action, the multiplier reel attaches to a gear system that multiplies line retrieval with each crank of the handle. The advantage is quicker line pick-up.
• Automatic
  • This reel allows you to simply flick a lever to retrieve line, a big plus when you have a lot of line out in the water. Fly fishing purists may disdain the automatic as taking away the challenge, but it does help in line control.

Drag systems

This is an essential feature of fly reels. Simply put, "drag" applies friction to the spool. This helps when you cast and when you play a fish, especially a larger fish. You can select from three types of drag systems:

• Spring-and-pawl
  • This type of system is also known as "click-and-pawl" or "ratchet-and-pawl." It is the simplest and most affordable drag.
  • A spring pushes the pawl into a gear on the reel spool to create drag. Some models use a knob to increase or decrease drag tension, while others feature a fixed drag tension.
  • While this is the simplest drag system, the "spring-and-pawl" is best-suited for lighter fishing, such as trout and panfish
  • This system will work on larger fish if you want a challenge and are skilled at working a reel by palming, a technique where you press the palm of your hand against the spinning reel of the spool as the fish takes line
• Caliper
  • This option falls between the "spring-and-pawl" and disc system both in the way it performs and what it costs
  • Much like brakes on a car, a caliper pad pushes against the braking surface on the spool
  • This friction then slows the way a reel spool spins
  • Even though most of today's reels come with an exposed palming rim, if you plan to palm make sure the reel you buy has this feature
• Disc
  • Generally found on more expensive reels, a disc drag pushes a large-diameter pad against the reel spool's braking surface
  • Just as with disc brakes on a car, pressure is applied directly, which increases control and the overall efficiency of the drag system.
  • Cork or synthetic materials such as Teflon are used in disc drag systems
  • Although more expensive, many believe cork provides a smoother, more consistent pressure and can be adjusted more precisely
  • You can also further increase control by selecting a reel that incorporates an exposed palming rim, usually a built-in feature on reels with a disc drag
  • Disc drag systems are ideal for fighting big, powerful fish since you get extra control and more consistent drag pressure

Size

• Larger spools offer quicker line retrieval, better line handling and enhanced drag pressure control
• If you're palming, make sure the reel also fits your hand as comfortably as possible as well

How to Buy Combos

• Fly fishing is as much art as it is sport so your equipment becomes extremely important. Line, leader, tippet, fly, reel and rod work together as a balanced system.
• If you are a beginner, you should consider buying a pre-packaged combo. This assures you of getting that balanced system necessary to increase your chances of landing fish and your enjoyment of the sport.
• Get lots of practice and refine your skills by adding more equipment as you begin to master the art of fly fishing.
• If you want an all-purpose combo, look for 5- or 6-weight rod and reel, with an 8- 9-foot rod, and a rod with a medium to medium-fast action. This combo will tackle nearly all of the fly fishing situations you may encounter.

VIEW ALL FLY FISHING RODS »   

Choosing The Right Fly Fishing Rods

Fly fishing is part science, part art. While it is demanding, you can improve your chances by selecting a rod that suits the type of fish you want to catch and your fishing style. This rod becomes part of a "balanced" system when combined with your fly line, leader and fly.

How To Buy Fly Fishing Rods

Balance is a key ingredient in selecting a rod to match your reel and line. With that in mind, here are several factors to consider in choosing a fly fishing rod.

Rod action

This refers to a rod's stiffness and how it will flex when you put it under stress when you cast or fight a fish. A rod's action depends on its design and its material.

• Fast action rods
  • These are stiffer and bend more in the upper third. This allows for longer casts, and crisper casts as well, which helps in windy conditions.
  • Besides quick, tight-casting strokes, fast-action rods require minimal changes in rod angles to keep this stroke
• Medium-action
  • Sometimes called moderate-action, these rods fall in the middle, flexing more in the upper half of the rod
  • They are more limber and offer a good choice for beginners since they are easier to use and can handle many fishing conditions
• Slow-action
  • These rods are the least stiff so they bend more uniformly throughout the rod. This makes casting more accurate, a plus in close ranges and in making delicate presentations of your fly.
  • The downside is the adjustments needed in your casting technique if you switch flies

Intended use

Action, weight and length, type of flies, type of fish, type of water and your skill level will help determine the rod you need.

Materials

Materials affect the rod's action and hence should fit your skill level and type of fishing. Two most popular materials are: fiberglass and graphite, with graphite including composite rods that add boron for stiffness.

• Fiberglass
  • Fiberglass is durable, generally less expensive and a good choice for beginners since it can be used in many fishing situations
• Graphite/Compositions
  • Lighter and better at casting, graphite also handles most fishing situations well so it's a proven material for beginners to skilled anglers

Graphite also gives you more fighting power in your rod

Weight and length

A rod's weight and length should be matched to the weight of your line. To make this easier, rod manufacturers determine the best match based on power and stiffness. For example, a "6-weight rod" is designed to cast a 6-weight fly line. Many times, this is described as #6/9', or a 6-weight, 9-foot rod.

• Line weights range from 1 to 15. Generally speaking, the lower line weights are for smaller flies and fish, while the higher line weights are for heavier flies and fish. Here's a brief rundown:
  • 1- to 3-weight: For making delicate presentations with small dry flies and nymph, especially designed for trout or panfish on small to moderate-sized waters
  • 4- to 6-weight: This is also very appropriate for trout, panfish and small bass. A 4-weight is perfect for delicacy and finesse, while a 6-weight works best on big waters or in windy conditions. The middle weight - 5 - is the most versatile for trout whether you want finesse on spring-fed creeks or bigger, wider rivers.
  • 7- to 8-weight: A 7-weight provides the extra power needed to land smallmouth bass or steelhead, and bigger trout found in rivers and reservoirs. These weights also work well with bigger flies and bass bugs. Consider these for steelhead, redfish, snook or light salmon fishing.
  • 9- to 10-weight: Large flies for catching salmon and pike require a heavier weight line; these weights also work in salt water for medium-sized fish
  • 11-weight and up: If you want go after the big boys - tarpon, tuna and billfish - you need these heavier weights
• Rod lengths give you the desired casting action. In general, longer rods give more action while shorter rods are geared for tight situations such as narrow streams. Here are some guidelines:
  • Less than 8': These are considered short rods and are perfect for fishing in tight areas - narrow streams with overhanging trees or small ponds with lots of brush
  • 8' - 9': These lengths are good fits for trout and bass fishing. The longer length will give you more casting range and should improve your line control.
  • 9' and longer: Designed for long casts and better ability to manage line, these longer rods are best for open waters, such as bonefish flats, salt water bays and big salmon rivers. Plan on fishing from a float tube? Then consider a 9- or 10-foot rod to help with casting.

How to buy combos

• Fly fishing is as much art as it is sport so your equipment becomes extremely important. Line, leader, tippet, fly, reel and rod work together as a balanced system.
• If you are a beginner, you should consider buying a pre-packaged combo. This assures you of getting that balanced system necessary to increase your chances of landing fish and your enjoyment of the sport.
• You can then practice making fly fishing an art and refine it with more equipment as you begin to master the art of fly fishing
• If you want an all-purpose combo, look for 5- or 6-weight rod and reel, with an 8- 9-foot rod, and a rod with a medium to medium-fast action. This combo will tackle nearly all of the fly fishing situations you may encounter.