Water Gear

Kneeboarding Gear 101

If you are looking for a unique watersport that is similar to water skiing, and just as thrilling, knee boarding is for you. Knee boarding offers all new challenges and thrills, but having the right equipment for your size and ability is essential to enjoy the sport.

Choosing the Right Kneeboard

Choosing between the two basic types of kneeboards offered by top manufacturers depends primarily on what type of knee boarding you plan to do.

Types of Kneeboards

• Recreational
  • Most recreational knee boarders use a rotomolded board, which is widely available and less expensive than high-tech models
  • The soft, wide edges of rotomolded boards are best suited for beginners and boarders just out for a good ride
  • The design allows for smooth turning and good control for even the novice knee boarder
  • The boards are relatively thick and very buoyant, so they help act as a flotation device after a spill
  • Some rotomolded boards offer fins to help make turning easier
• Competitive
  • Compression-molded boards offer more performance and durability for the advanced knee boarder
  • These are thinner, lighter and have sharper edges to allow quicker turning and tricks
  • Compression-molded boards are not as buoyant as rotomolded versions, which allows advanced users to utilize deep-water starts

Kneeboard Styles

Whether you are a beginner or advanced, there are two general styles of kneeboards, and the one you choose depends on what you are planning to do out on the water.

• Trick board
  • Features a rounded bottom and rounded edges to make it easier to perform tricks.
• Slalom board
  • Designed for the specific use of slalom boarding
  • Has sharper edges to allow for better turning and holding the edge through the turn

Kneeboard Construction

There are various parts of every kneeboard that affect its performance.

• Materials
  • Kneeboards are comprised of generally the same materials as water ski's
  • A polyurethane or foam core is wrapped by a fiberglass or fiberglass/graphite (on advanced boards) composite exterior
• Rocker
  • This is the measurement of the curve on the bottom of the kneeboard
  • The higher the rocker number, the easier to turn. The lower the rocker, the faster it goes.
  • Most kneeboards have a rocker of 5-6 centimeters
• Fins
  • These are located on the bottom of the kneeboard to make it easier to steer
  • Usually made of hard plastic and a fiberglass composite.

Choosing the Right Rope

Knee boarders, require a stiffer rope than water skiers to help perform tricks. A tighter, stiffer rope that does not stretch helps you get more air and be able to pull yourself through flips and spins.

Low stretch

• Low stretch ropes are generally constructed of polyethylene or a polyethylene blend
• These generally stretch around one percent in length when under a normal knee boarding load

No-stretch

• No-stretch ropes are constructed using a material called Spectra
• Spectra rope is very strong and has almost no elastic properties.
• They stretch less than half a percent when under a normal load

Multi-purpose

• If you mainly kneeboard and are trying to improve your skills and learn tricks, the spectra rope is your best bet
• If you spend equal amounts of time skiing and knee boarding and you are an occasional or recreational user, a low-stretch rope will do the job. This gives you some stretch for recreational water skiing, but also offers enough stiffness to pull against when knee boarding.

Rope Length

• Kneeboard ropes vary in length, but most are 60 to 70 feet long

Handles

• Kneeboard handles tend to be more specialized than water-ski handles because they offer more features that make tricks and aerial maneuvers easier
• Most kneeboard handles have a wider grip than water ski handles
• Kneeboard handles commonly have grips that are 13-15" wide, whereas ski handles are generally 11-12" wide
• The increased grip width makes it easier to perform tricks requiring the handle to be passed behind the rider's back
• Kneeboard handles typically have a feature that makes spinning tricks easier. This may come in the form of a rope braid or the newer "launch" handles that offer a second, smaller handle grip built into the rope for a stronger hold.
• Most kneeboard handles have neoprene foam floats on them to keep the handle floating
• Knee boarders ride at fairly slow speed, much slower than water skiers, allowing foam floats to be built onto the handle without having a problem with the water ripping them off

Wakeboarding Gear 101

Wake boarding offers a different set of thrills and requires a different set of skills than traditional waterskiing. As the sport has grown in popularity, the variety and sophistication of the products has increased.

Choosing the Right Wakeboard

There are two main factors involved in determining which type of wake board is right for you:

Level of Ability

• Beginners
  • Beginners should opt for a beginner package style board that is generally softer in flex than the more advanced shapes. These beginner boards react slower and don't throw you off the wake. This allows for the rider to learn the basics before he/she wants to step up to a high end shape.
  • This version is generally less expensive because they do not include many of the high-tech additions of more advanced boards
  • Square rails, however, make it more difficult to make landings from air tricks because the edges are sharper (less rounded) and make it easier to catch an edge
• Advanced
  • Advanced riders will prefer a board with round rails
  • Tricks are easier and softer to land because there is less of a chance of catching an edge
  • Round rails also enable the board to go faster and provide a quicker lift on jumps
  • Advanced boards are far stiffer than a beginner shape. Stiffness in wake boarding creates lift off of the wake. Generally speaking, the stiffer the board, the more air the rider can attain off the wake.
  • Advanced boards also ride more like a snowboard. They utilize smaller fins thus making the rider rely on his edging technique. For a beginner, this is a difficult thing to learn on an advanced board.
  • Advanced boards are also lighter as they use far more expensive materials in their build process. A lighter board is easier to manage while doing some flip tricks as well as spins.

Wake board construction

Again, it is your ability level and style of riding that will determine which type of wake board to buy.

Materials

• Wake boards are comprised of generally the same materials as water skis
• A polyurethane or foam core is wrapped by a fiberglass or fiberglass/graphite (on advanced boards) composite exterior

Dimensions

• Most wake boards are made between 120-150 centimeters in length
• Most boards will come with an indication of the proper size and weight of the rider
• If in doubt, always choose the larger size as a board too small for the rider, is very hard to perform starts and jumps. A board to large for the rider performs fine until the rider moves on to multiple spins and flips.
• In general, the shorter the board the less stability in starts and turns, so beginners should also choose a slightly longer board to make learning easier
• Wake board widths generally range from 39 to 43 centimeters. The wider the board, the more surface area the rider will have under them. When learning, the more surface area of board on the water, the easier it will be to first get up.

Rocker

The amount of rocker describes a wake board's bottom profile using the angles where the board curves at either end. Wake board rockers have two major categories: continuous, continuous/progressive and three-stage.

• Continuous rocker offers predictable performance with a smooth curve from tip to tail. It accelerates smoothly and generates a comfortable pop off the wake.
• Continuous/progressive rockers are They have a continuous rocker through the belly and then become gradually more angled around the area under the feet.
• Three-stage rockers are also designed for enhanced acceleration and an aggressive lift off the wake. They typically have a significant flat spot in the middle of the board and then kink or curve abruptly under the feet and flatten out off the tip and tail.
• Wake boards generally come with rockers between 5-6 centimeters
• A higher rocker--a more rounded bottom-- makes it easier to land jumps
• A lower rocker--a flatter bottom-- is easier to control when going straight and accelerates better

Fins

Function

Fins keep the board traveling in the direction in which you point it and prevent it from freely rotating on the water. It does this using vertical depth and the shape of the foil, or profile, of the fin from front to back.

• Wider fins move more water and create drag and lift under your feet
• Thinner fins push less water and let the fin guide your board without resistance

Depth and Base

Rocker and fin hole placement should be considered when selecting a fin depth.

• Extra rocker pulls the fin up out of the water and compromises hold, as will a wider fin setting
• Elongated bases address rocker problems, giving the water a snowy feel and giving shallow fins more surface area for effective cutting and tracking
• Measure the rocker and fin holes in a complete board that feels comfortable to you and compare it to those in a new board you're thinking about buying.

Conditions

• Rough conditions call for a larger fin that will provide hold and control while you're bouncing around in the chop
• For smooth, clear conditions, the maneuverability of a smaller, thinner fin is preferred by most boarders

Styles

In general, a ramp style fin is a good place to start. It is considered the most universal of shapes, and seems to work for a lot of different riding styles. Having a few sets of fins can give you almost as much versatility as owning a collection of complete boards. A long base shape with different depths and foils offer a great deal of riding variety.

• Sharper and deeper for choppy conditions or extra control in new maneuvers
• Rampy and shallow for smooth, free-riding conditions

Bindings

Overlay

The overlay provides the majority of foot support by pulling the toe and heel pieces together, and creating a snug, secure attachment for your board. Bindings have evolved drastically over the years and now fit very similar to a snowboard boot while allowing for release during a fall due to strategically placed flex zones.

• The standard system has two overlays that criss-cross behind and in front of the foot and lock down to the hardware around the ankle and fore foot.
• Overlays are designed to offer ankle support without binding.
• Overlays work effectively by pushing your heel down; many newer bindings have adjustable straps, laces or buckles in the overlay package to accomplish this.
• These closures range from firm plastic with a ratcheting buckle to systems with a lace-up closure connected to a rubber or cordura overlay. Closures must be cinched down enough for consistent, all-over, non-binding pressure.
• All bindings have some sort of tightening system. Most use laces similar to snowboard boots but there are also boots using Velcro, and other systems to achieve the perfect fit.

Underlay

The underlay makes contact with the top of your foot and the Achilles tendon area. Today's underlays are usually made from some form of EVA (Ethylene Vinyl Acetate, a foam and rubber hybrid). That EVA is then wrapped in lycra which gives a soft feel that molds to your foot.

• EVA underlays vary from very flexible to very stiff.
• A stiffer underlay offers more support, but may impede comfort and easy on-and-off. Softer underlays will be comfortable but may not offer all the structure you desire.
• Make sure that when you wear the boot, there aren't any areas that pinch or bind your foot. There are also variations in the type of rubber/neoprene laminated to the EVA for comfort and grip on the skin. Ensure that there is a bond between the rubber and EVA, and that anything sewn or cut on the underlay is clean and sturdy looking.

Hardware

Over the past few years, wake board bindings have removed most all hardware from boots and now rely on a construction method similar to that of a shoe. Most all pieces are sewn together.

• Good hardware should be ergonomically designed, curving into the arch and out at the toes. The heel piece should sit like a fitted cup and offer support all the way around the heel.
• Make sure that your foot can't slide on top of any of the hardware pieces; landing in that position will cause bruises on your foot.
• There are a number of companies that make aftermarket bolts and accessories for your bindings. The most important is a good set of bolts to lock the baseplates down. Most of these sets come with a set of countersunk washers that spread the load of the bolt and add a custom look.

Baseplate

A wake board binding baseplate may look fairly straightforward, but start assembling them with various boards and you'll begin to understand the differences among them.

• A baseplate must be strong and stiff; a flexible baseplate will reduce the feel and control you have over your board.
• All baseplates are made from compressed nylon.
• Your baseplate also needs to offer you plenty of stance options. You should be able to get within a fraction of an inch of your ideal stance, including stance width and angles from the middle (rail to rail) of the board.

Footbed

Footbeds should offer not only a lot of support, but also a comfortable resting place for your feet. Support feel in footbeds is similar to that in skates, or basketball or running shoes.

• The heel should sit a little higher than the ball of the foot to accommodate the ankles and knees. The bed should also have a nice heel cup to hold you firmly in place.
• On the surface of the footbeds, look for a comfortable form of traction to keep your soles from sliding around when they get wet.
• A raise under the toes and an arch support are typical for most bindings, giving you leverage on your toeside edge and keeping you from sliding out the toe hole.
• For shock absorption, make sure the foot bed isn't too soft. Some manufacturers use two different densities of foam for a combination of comfort and shock absorption. Others have gone to air and gel pockets under the heel for added shock absorption.

Entrance / Adjustment

Wake board bindings have become far easier to put on and take off over the past few seasons. The advent of stretch zones in the lycra, and the Hinge mechanism, has allowed for the opening for your foot to become very wide, allowing for you to simply step in to the bindings.. If you like to ride with a boot that is really snug or tight, then your boots are going to be a little hard to get into. If you're using lots of force and soap, then you should consider something bigger or more adjustable. Adjustability can mean one of two things:

• Boots using lace tightening systems allow for you to have a snug fit, with several different size feet. You can tighten the boot around your foot with straps, buckles, ties and closures
• Wake board boots using Hinge Technology have the ability to customize the heel hold tightness thus allowing the rider to change the release tension of the boot

Choosing The Right Rope

Wake boarders require a stiffer rope than water skiers to help perform tricks. A tighter, stiffer rope that does not stretch helps you get more air and be able to pull yourself through flips and spins.

Types:

Low stretch

• Low stretch ropes are generally constructed of polyethylene or a blend that is similar.
• These generally stretch around 1 percent in length when under a normal wake boarding load

No-stretch

• No-stretch ropes are constructed using a material called Spectra or Dyneema.
• These ropes are very strong and have almost no elastic properties. They stretch less than half of a percent when under load.

Multi-purpose

• If most or all of your time is spent water skiing, a ski rope should be your choice even if you are wake boarding
• If you mainly wake board or are trying to improve your skills and learn tricks, a stiffer rope is your best bet
• If you spend equal amounts of time skiing and wake boarding, and you are an occasional or recreational user, a low-stretch rope will do the job. This gives you some stretch for recreational water skiing, but also offers enough stiffness to pull against when wake boarding.

Length

• Wake board ropes vary in length, but most are sixty to seventy feet long
• Some are one piece with no length adjustment, while others offer multiple adjustment loops

Handles

• Wake board handles tend to be more specialized than water-ski handles because they offer more features that make tricks and aerial maneuvers easier
• Most wake board handles have a wider grip than water ski handles
  • Wake board handles commonly have grips that are 13-15 inches wide, whereas ski handles are generally 11-12 inches wide
  • The increased grip width makes it easier to perform tricks requiring the handle to be passed behind the rider's back
• Wake board handles usually have a rope braid for the rider to hold onto; or offer a second, smaller handle grip built into the rope for a stronger hold
• Most wake board handles have neoprene foam floats on them to keep the handle floating

Water Skis 101

Types of Skis

There are basically four different types of water skis available, although two of them-- combination pairs and slalom skis, account for the majority of skis purchased

• Combination pairs
  • Combination pairs are the most common form of water ski and the easiest to learn with
  • Combination skis feature wider tips for better control for beginners to advanced skiers
  • One ski is set up as a combination ski, with a double binding to allow for slalom skiing
• Slalom skis
  • Used for skiing with only one ski, the slalom skis are ideal for making sharp turns and reaching higher speeds
  • The more recreational type slalom skis have a wider tail and flatter bottom and make it easier to get up and ride straight
  • Intermediate and advanced slalom skis have a more tapered tail, beveled edges and a moderate concave or tunnel concave bottom
  • These are more difficult to ride but allow you to go faster and make sharper turns
• Trick skis
  • Used for jumping, spinning, and doing tricks
  • These are short, wide, and require an intermediate to advanced skill level to use
  • These have no fins, making them more difficult to control but easier to turn and slide
• Jump skis
  • Highly specific design used exclusively for jumping off of ramps
  • These resemble long, old-fashioned skis with a wider and longer profile, but with high-tech composite material construction
  • They are strong, but light

Ski Construction and Design

Construction

• Modern skis are manufactured out of fiberglass or fiberglass/graphite composites for better durability and waterproofing

Bottom Designs

The type of ski design you buy depends on what type of skiing you will be doing.

• Narrow tunnel
  • For skiers who tend to ski standing straight up or with their weight on the back of the ski
  • The bottom is partially concave and the ski itself is rather wide
• Concave
  • Designed for skiers who ski with their knees very bent and their weight forward
  • Improves turning ability and maneuverability

Fin

• Located on the bottom of each ski to make turning and maneuvering easier

Beveled edges

• The edge of all skis are beveled in different amounts
• A sharper edge lets you go faster but is more difficult to control because it is easier to catch an edge and wipe out
• A more rounded edge is easier to control but it is less sharp on turns

Rocker

• This is the measurement of the curve on the bottom of the ski
• The greater the rocker, the more ski will turn but the less it will accelerate

Flex

• Flex is the measurement of stiffness in a ski
• The stiffer the ski (lower flex), the faster you can go but the more difficult it is to turn
• The more flex a ski has, the easier it is to turn but the slower you will ski when going straight
• Generally speaking, the more expensive a ski, the stiffer the flex.

Length

• Most standard water skis are 5 to 6 feet long, 6 to 7 inches wide, and 1/2 to 3/4 inches thick
• Beginners should choose a longer ski that gives them better control but does not go as fast
• More advanced skiers should purchase shorter skis, which go faster but are more difficult to control
• How to choose the right length ski
  • The size ski you choose depends largely on your weight. If you are on the borderline, choose the larger ski.
  • Children weighing 30-80 pounds should choose a ski 40-52 inches length and 5-6 inches in width
  • Young adults/women weighing 80-150 pounds should choose a ski 66-67 inches in length and 6 1/2 inches in width
  • Adults weighing 150-200 pounds should choose a ski 68 inches in length and 6 1/2 inches in width
  • Adults weighing over 200 pounds should choose a ski 69-72 inches in length and 7-8 inches in width

How To Buy Slalom Skis

With all the different types of slaloms that are available, how do you know what's right for you? First, you need to make an honest evaluation of your skills and decide what you want to accomplish. Use this guide to narrow the field and do some homework, and you'll find the ski that best matches your style and abilities.

Components:

Bevel

• The side profile of the ski is called the "bevel"
• Bevels determine the way water flows from under the ski and up the sides
• The lower bevel affects lift. A sharp lower bevel creates more water resistance beneath the ski, resulting in a higher ride. A rounded lower bevel, on the other hand, facilitates smooth water flow and minimizes lift.
• The upper bevel controls roll. A sharp upper bevel reduces the ski's tendency to lean, while a rounded upper bevel facilitates rolling, but may be more difficult to control

Bottom Design

• Modern slalom skis feature a concave bottom design
• The width of this concave tunnel has a marked effect on ski performance
• Wide tunnels generate more suction, making a ski more difficult to roll
• Narrow tunnels ride higher and roll more easily
• Some skis have transition designs that are narrow at the tip and wider at the rear. These are designed to provide an easy roll into turns while keeping the tail of the ski deep in the water.

Flex

• The stiffness of a slalom ski varies significantly from tip to tail
• The flex pattern of a ski more important to performance than the ski's overall stiffness
• One popular formula states that each of the flex points of a ski should be within 20 percent of the next. A good ratio might be 100 : 85 : 60 : 50

Rocker

• A ski's rocker influences the radius of turns. It is the degree to which the nose and tail are curved, or angled upward.
• The greater the rocker, the tighter the turn. Too much rocker makes the ski difficult to control and accelerate.

Width

• Slalom skis taper from fore-body to tail
• The wider the body of the ski the more support it provides
• A narrow tail allows the skier to dig into the water, angle across wake, and decelerate on command, while a wide tail reduces drag and maintains speed

Profile

• Ski profile is the thickness of the ski (see image above)
• A thin profile provides a deep ride, especially in the tail section, while a wide profile creates lift, keeping the ski from sinking and diving in the pre-turn

Rides

Wide

• This category significantly wider than traditional slaloms and is ideal for first-time skiers
• A wide ride makes getting up easier, doesn't require a quick edge, and provides overall stability on the water

Shaped

• A hybrid of wide and traditional rides that accommodates both beginning and experienced skiers
• Performs like a traditional ski does but with added stability at speeds of 34-mph and below
• Shaped skis are increasing in popularity among the slalom skiing population

Traditional

• Designed for fairly competitive and experienced skiers who ride on edge the majority of the time and can link a series of turns
• This class offers stability crossing wakes, responsiveness, and easy turning
• Ideal for skiers who are working to improve their body form

World Class

• The most technologically advanced class of slalom skis, containing more carbon graphite than traditional skis and designed for the advanced skier
• These skis offer quick acceleration, shut down in turns and holds, and a strong edge crossing wakes
• Because they are very responsive, they perform best when skiing aggressively in open water or in the slalom course

Sizing

Water Skiing Gear 101

Bindings

• Ski bindings are what hold your feet to the ski
• Most bindings are made of gummed rubber or neoprene with adjustable hold-down straps and a reinforcing piece across the heel that makes them fit almost like a shoe
• Combination pairs usually have one ski with one binding and the other ski with a double binding to allow for additional use as a slalom ski
• Combination bindings are usually adjustable to allow for multiple users and are easier to put on and take off
• Slalom skis have a binding for each foot and are either adjustable or fixed (also known as plate bindings) with double boots or a rear toe piece
• Single booted bindings are easier to get on and off but are not as secure
• Double booted bindings hold your feet in place much better but are not as convenient to put on and take off
• Rear toe piece and adjustable bindings are easier to get up on but do not give you as good a feel for the ski

Ropes

• A water ski rope needs to be slightly elastic and able to give with the skier as he or she changes speeds and turns
• The rope length for standard water skiing is 70 feet, 75 feet if you include the handle
• Generally, water ski ropes are made of polypropylene and will stretch two to three percent of their length when under normal skiing load
• The give in the rope helps absorb the shock of cutting through the boat wake as a skier crosses from side to side
• One-quarter-inch diamond braid polyethylene or polypropylene having a breaking strength of more than 800 pounds is recommended
• Standard water skiing ropes may have up to 10 colored sections, or take-offs
• Take-offs allow for shortening or lengthening the rope from one attachment loop to the next
• If you want to ski closer to the boat, you merely shorten the rope one or more "take-off" loops

Handles

Most skiers today use a single handle.

• Recreational water ski handles
  • Recreational water ski handles generally feature an injection-molded rubber or plastic grip
  • The molded grip may or may not have anything inside of it to provide strength and durability
  • Because it is molded and no water can get inside, it floats
  • Molded handles are generally less expensive and typically use less expensive rope materials
• Higher performance water ski handles
  • Higher performance water ski handles are typically based around an aluminum bar that has had a soft, comfortable rubber molded onto it
  • While this construction is lighter, stronger, more durable, and more comfortable than an injection molded handle, it is also hollow, which allows water inside and leads to sinking
• Handle diameters and lengths
  • Handle diameters range from 1 inch (for small hands) to 1 1/4 inches for larger hands
  • Handle lengths range from 11-18 inches, depending on the size of the skier

Bindings for slalom skis

Bindings should be loose enough to put on without using soap, yet tight enough to provide responsiveness and edge control.

Types

• Double high-wraps: enhanced control and feel, custom fit
• Front high-wrap with rear toe plate: versatile, fits multiple skiiers using one ski on a trip
• Adjustable bindings: customizable fit and performance

Materials

• EVA foam: high-performance, custom fit, stiff with increased edge control
• Traditional rubber: beginner level, soft and comfortable